ESCAPE FROM THE CITY: The historical and cultural richness of Armenia

ESCAPE FROM THE CITY: The historical and cultural richness of Armenia

Thursday, March 4, 2010

VERCİHAN ZİFLİOĞLU

ISTANBUL – Hürriyet Daily News

Although the border between Turkey and Armenia is not open, one can travel to Armenia through Georgia or by buses taking off from Istanbul to see museums and historical temples that are on UNESCO’s world heritage list

A small country on the world map, Armenia is a historically and culturally rich place in the Caucasus.

The country of the legendary Hayk, known as a patriarch and founder of the Armenian nation, was declared independent 19 years ago after the Soviet Union’s break up. The Turkish and Azerbaijani borders of Armenia were closed in 1993 due to the Karabakh war. As the doors opening Armenia to the world have been the borders with Iran and Georgia for the last 17 years, Armenia has been on the world agenda because of political issues for the last few years.

If you want to witness history and experience adventure before the borders between Turkey and Armenia open, this is the right time. Of course, Armenia is not only about the borders, politics and history. It has its traditions and culture. However, one must put up with some difficulties on the way to visiting Yerevan.

Be careful with the taxis at the airport

One can take an AFP bus from Aksaray, Istanbul to Yerevan. The tickets cost $60, and the bus leaves on Wednesdays at 11:30 a.m. On the way it is possible to see Armenian suitcase traders and hear about their tough lives. The buses travel through Georgia on a route that is a long way from Istanbul to Yerevan.

In case one prefers the plane to the bus, there are flights from Istanbul directly to Yerevan. There are two flights per week from Atatürk Airport, and the journey takes an hour and a half. Once getting off the plane at Zvartnots Airport, which is only a few kilometers from the city center, one should pay attention to two things before approaching the passport control booths. One should exchange money to the Armenian currency, Trams, and fill out the visa form carefully.

If one gets into line for the passport check without exchanging money or filling out the form, one gets a warning from the officials and needs to get out of the line. If it is one’s first visit to the country and there is nobody to pick one up at the airport, get a taxi, but do not forget to bargain with the driver. Otherwise, the distance, which normally costs $2, will turn into $50.

Magical view of Mount Ararat

The first day one should get to know Yerevan, the capital of Armenia. The city is like an open-air museum. From a bird’s eye view, it is designed in the shape of a sun with rays of light by the legendary architect Alexander Tamanyan. In the center of the city one should visit Azadutyun Hrabarag, known as the independence square. One can also see the magical view of Ararat and its peak touching the clouds.

The city is home to a newly constructed avenue, named North Avenue. Following this one can reach the Opera Square, which fills the eyes with its charming architecture. The huge posters decorating the wall on the side of the opera building display the program for the week. Try not to leave before watching a performance.

Surprise at Cascade stairs

There are various museums to visit in Yerevan, but one should first spare time for the Madenataran Museum, which displays thousands of years of calligraphy artworks and miniatures. After visiting the museum, try to head to Cascade Square, where a huge cat monument will welcome you. There are also stars where one can sit down for a rest and watch the amazing view of Mount Ararat. To have a nice meal after a beautiful and calm day in Yerevan, one can go to Sirelineru Ayki, or Lover's Park. There one can find various choices of cafés and restaurants.

A monastery formed of rocks

Although Yerevan is a small city, one needs at least three days to visit all the important areas. Gyumri is a smaller city than Yerevan, although it is known as the second biggest city of Armenia, and it is within walking distance from the Turkish border. After it was demolished by an earthquake in 1988, it took a long time for the city to recover. One can still see traces of the earthquake, yet the historical parts are still standing. The architectural structure of the city is similar to Turkey’s northeastern city Kars.

Getting to know the locals is possible by listening to the music, learning about the literature and visiting religious constructions. On the hills and mountains and inside the caves there are lots of monasteries and churches, and one of the most interesting among these constructions is located in the Lori region. Built inside high rock surfaces, Kobayr Monastery is worth a visit. One can also see a similar construction in the Dilijan region at Keghart Monastery.

UNESCO’s list

Within the borders of the country there are many monasteries, churches and temples belonging to the era before Christianity. Some of them are listed on UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites. One of the most important is the Kotayk Region’s Garni Temple, which dates back to the polytheistic era before Christianity. The others are Hagbat and Sanahin monasteries. Try to visit the Armenian Apostolik Church and the hand carved stones at Xhackarlar (Cross-stone). Veteran artisans’ works on historic Xhackarlar should be seen.
On the way back to Turkey try to buy souvenirs, such as pomegranates, the symbol of Armenia, coffee and delicious apricots and cheeses.